If today’s post reads even worse than usual, you’ll have to forgive me. I have a grappa fuzz, which will be explained later.
Today’s walk into Gallipoli turned out to be more of a chore than a pleasure. The day was beautiful, the sea was turquoise, but pavements were there none. The expected 30 minute stroll took 50 minutes on hot asphalt with Italian drivers appearing to try their best to ensure we never reached our destination. Melek, the little trooper, flopped down at the halfway mark and refused to move until we had revived him with water, which we had luckily packed in the rucksack.
Gallipoli
Gallipoli old town is situated on a small virtual island, connected to the mainland by a short causeway. It is bijou, stone flagged and medieval. Another very pleasant place to wander. It barely warrants five lines in our guidebook, but the plethora of tourist tat shops indicates that this is a popular destination.
Anjevin Fortress – Gallipoli
The Lonely Planet’s only suggested items of interest were the inevitable cathedral, which turned out to be to my taste. The interior covered with 17th century paintings and the original baroque carved stone still exposed. The only other place deserving and entry in LP was a pharmacy, founded in 1814 and apparently displaying beautiful original decorations. We eventually found it, but if it was displaying original decorations all I can say is that perhaps all pharmacies in Italy have 1814 decorations, because there was nothing to distinguish it.
Duomo – Gallipoli
As it happened Sarah wanted some Aspirin, so I entered said pharmacy. When I exited with one box of Aspirins my pockets were lighter by €6. Over the counter medications is one area where Britain seems to differ from its EU cousins. Such items as Aspirin do not appear to be available in supermarkets, or even on the shelf in pharmacies. They are only available behind the counter in pharmacies and I suspect the result is this monopolistic price. If Aspirin can be sold in the UK for 16 pence a packet then imagine the profit on a box at €6.
Fishing Boats – Gallipoli
Gallipoli
Gallipoli
After meandering the pretty streets of Gallipoli for a couple of hours we headed back. The return trip seemed easier somehow. We decided to call in to the fish restaurant near to our campsite for lunch. We have previously noticed locals go to buy their fish from the connected fishmonger in the morning so we anticipated the fish would be fresh.
They were happy to accept Melek and Mabel, who behave impeccably in restaurants. We have not yet eaten out in the evening and so I decided I would treat lunch as dinner. We had excellent seafood antipasto: baby octopus encased in herbs and breadcrumbs, mussels, grilled fish and a small prawn quiche. We followed with linguine alla vongole, which is a classic dish of pasta with small mediterranean clams. Simple but delicious. Finally I could not resist the excellent marmalade tart.
It was then that I made a mistake. Sarah and I had shared a half litre of good crisp white wine with the meal. If it had been the evening I would often finish a meal with an espresso and a glass of grappa. For those not in the know grappa is a grape based spirit much consumed in Italy. I decided to go for it. The first difficulty was that my tolerance for alcohol at lunchtime is much lower than at night and the second problem was than mine host presented me with the largest glass of grappa that I have ever seen.
After walking the few yards back the Basil I decided to have “a little lie down” in his comforting embrace. The next thing I know I’m writing this blog in a grappa haze.