Tonight we’re wildcamping or wilding it, as it’s known in motorhoming circles. There are campsites, official stopping places and there’s plonking Basil where you fancy and spending the night!
In the two years we’ve been thinking about this journey I have been reading other people’s blogs and making a note of their stopping places, which I have compiled into a Google Map. When we were deciding where to stay tonight I noticed one of my favourite bloggers (actually a couple of bloggers) Ourtour, had stayed on a carpark sandwiched between a cathedral and a harbour in the attractive old town of Trani.
We set SatNav for the GPS coordinates in their blog and after Basil had tightened his corsets to get through Trani’s old town, here we are. A beautiful spot on a car park next to the harbour where there does not appear to be any reason not to stay for the night (41.281671,16.419736). The Caribinieri have been round a few times and not said anything so I hope we will be OK. Thanks Ourtour.
Basil’s wildcamping spot – Trani
Today we decided to explore the old crusader towns of Barletta and Trani. Some of the later crusades were sponsored by the Holy Roman Emperor Frederick II. This part of Italy was within his jurisdiction and he established Barletta and Trani as rendezvous and embarkation points for his troops on crusade.
Both places have big castles build by Frederick II, well not him personally, but you know what I mean. Tomorrow we hope to look round his castle to end castles at Del Monte, so we didn’t bother with these lesser mortals today.
Trani Castle
On the drive to Barletta, our first stop, there was already much excitement. First we saw a flock of flamingos in a shallow lake by the side of the road. Unfortunately the road was too busy to stop, but the sight of such an exotic bird after yesterday’s bird related shenanigans made my heart soar.
As we drove along the coastline it was clear that there were shallow brackish lakes for miles, just behind the coastal dunes. The result – our second exhilaration (I may be overdoing it a bit), salt farming. Yes, JCB’s pushing about great heaps of the white stuff and a bit further along great saline mountains.
Salt diggers
Salt – Mountains of it
On arrival in Barletta, LIDL called and we now confidently left Mabel in Basil to do her worst. Shopping was uneventful apart from Sarah persuading me to purchase a 5 litre container of red wine for €4. Oh dear, I suspect this may be a mistake.
Barletta was a little disappointing, in that it’s famed cathedral was closed. We still managed to see the colossus of Barletta. It is the largest late Roman bronze in the world and no-one seems to know where it came from or who it represents. It is speculated that it is of an Emperor but which one is anyone’s guess. Legend has it that when the Saracens attacked Barletta the Colossus stood on the seafront and told them he was the smallest person living there, at which the Saracens turned tail and ran (well sailed probably).
Colossus of Barletta
Trani was much more interesting. The 13th century cathedral is magnificent. Unusually it is located right on the seafront, with no buildings between it and the Adriatic. The inside is large and gracefull. It’s rough finished limestone really evokes the era of it’s construction. There does not appear to have been major later additions, which is quite unusual. The beautiful original bronze doors are also displayed inside.
Trani Cathedral
Trani Cathedral
Bronze Doors (detail) – Trani Cathedral
After the cathedral we finished our day with a wander round the tiny lanes of the lovely old town including a Jewish quarter and a 13th C synagogue which bears witness to the large Jewish community which lived in Barletta at the same time as the crusaders were setting off to do battle in the Holy Land.
Trani Old Town
We wandered back along the harbour to Basil to spend a hopefully unmolested night, with just the sound of seagulls and church bells to spoil our sleep.
I like a distressed door as much as the next man
Trani Cathedral
Trani Cathedral
Trani Cathedral (detail)
Trani Old Town