Last night as I was wandering down to the beach I heard a young couple, with four children, talking in English. I asked them if they had come to Southern Italy for an Easter holiday, but they told me that they were three weeks into a new adventure. They were going to home school their children and tour Europe for a year or so. It was when I asked them if they were in a caravan or a motorhome that I got a shock. Their answer was neither: they were simply sleeping in the back of the man’s builders van, where they had some mattresses! It was only after our conversation that questions came to mind about cooking, toilets and so much more – but it would have, in any case, been rude to probe further. They are clearly an adventurous lot and good luck to them. I’m just glad there are only two of us in Basil.

We spent our last night on site in the campsite restaurant where we had a small amuse bouche, two fantastic pizzas, a bottle of wine, a desert to share, a coffee and a digestif, all for €27! I love eating out in Italy.

Today we upped sticks from the lovely Villagio dei Pini (definitely our best campsite so far) and drove from Italy’s east to west coasts. Luckily Italy has a narrow ankle and it only took us three hours. I was expecting a mountainous journey, knowing that the Apennines run the length of the country, but although the road was not flat there were no spectacular mountains to view. The rain finally caught up with us and it was truly torrential, but only for 15 minutes or so and it is now beginning to improve.

Basil’s last spot in Italy?

I have always had suspicions that Sarah has southern European blood, with her dark, thick black hair and today I have proof. The temperature has dropped down to 16º C or so and she is complaining about being cold. The fleece and puffer jacket have gone back on. She is definitely looking like a local.

We have chosen a small ACSI site near Bari as our last stop in Italy before crossing to Greece. It is called La Batteria (41.255401, 16.4818910) and is the quietist site we have been on yet. It is only €15 a night but is completely deserted. We are the only motorhome and everything on the site is closed. Still it is probably only going to be two nights before we are on the boat to Greece.

Basil’s feeling lonely

The campsite is set on a promontory with a panoramic view over the sea. In one direction is the small town of Bisceglie which we will probably explore tomorrow and in the other, in the distance, is the fishing town of Trani where we camped on the harbour only a few weeks ago. There is no beach but there is a concrete walkway by the sea over which small waves are breaking. When we took the dogs down there earlier I was paranoid that Melek would get swept into the sea, but he showed too much sense.

View to Bisceglie