We eventually solved the riddle of the parking payment. Sarah saw the owner of the only other motorhome putting something in a box attached to the noticeboard, where we had seen all the Norwegian notices last night. Payment was apparently on an honesty box basis: a first for us. Because we had not used the available electricity, and the standard charge for electricity on Norwegian campsites seems to be 50 NOK, we put 100 NOK in the box, rather than the 150 NOK mentioned. We decided that was fair, but was it honest?

The view from our camping spot last night in Skutvik – before the rain.

Today was a driving day, and if it hadn’t been Norway it would have also have been a boring day. The rain was as persistent and heavy as we’ve seen the whole trip and the clouds cloaked the mountains most of the time. Despite the appalling weather there were still views to be had, albeit albeit only 10% of their potential; but 10% of a Norwegian view is still interesting. The most spectacular impressions today have been of the vast number of enormous waterfalls which cascade down the numerous sheer mountainsides. This was presumably a product of the weather, but we’ve not seen anything quite like it.

Most of our journey was on the E6. This is Norway’s main north south road. It goes from Nordkapp all the way to Oslo. Just because it’s a major artery doesn’t make it an easy drive. The topography of Norway means it is essentially a mountain road for all of its route. Today was not different. Over one hundred miles and barely one straight section. It constantly twists and turns, climbs and descends and plunges through narrow tunnels. It also turns out to be a motorhome superhighway. At one set of roadworks, where we stopped at a red light, we counted four motorhomes in the queue, with only one car, one lorry and a motorbike.

Pricing in Norway is continuing to perplex us. Today it was diesel, yesterday bread. Over the past three days we have bought two identical granary loaves in the same chain of shops – REMA 1000. One was 25 NOK (€2.67) the other 37 NOK (€3.96). We now expect Norway to be ridiculously expensive, for reasons we still don’t really understand, but why such enormous fluctuation. Today we paid 15 NOK for a litre of diesel, and the other stations in the area were all charging the same, and then 50 miles further on it was down to 12 NOK everywhere! I presume it is down to lack of local competition, but we have rarely seen such differentials elsewhere.

The aim today was to reach the start of the Artic Road Tourist Route. This coincides with the Saltstraumen maelstom, where a large fjord attempts to fill and empty every tide through a 150 metre gap in the rocks. The tourist authorities bill this as a raging 20 miles per hour torrent, although another piece I have read by local maritime pilots say this is exaggerated and the current is usually a maximum of 8 miles an hour. Whichever is right I had seen some good wildcamping spots next to it on my databases.

Unfortunately when we arrived, not only was the maelstrom looking rather benign, no camping and no motorhome signs had appeared everywhere. When we tried the local campsite, essentially a dreary tarmac carpark with over 100 motorhomes cheek by jowl, we think we saw the reason for these signs. They wanted 250 NOK (€27) to stay on their car park! No wonder free camping in the area has been clamped down on.

We knew, this being Norway, there would be a perfectly legal, superior car park, within the next few miles so we politely declined their invitation to tender. Sure enough within five miles we had seen several nice stopping points and we’ve pulled into a layby, next to a fjord for the night (67.178472, 14.574183).

A photo from Basil’s parking spot tonight. You can see it’s beginning to brighten up.

Tomorrow we start the Artic Road Tourist Route, which hugs the coastline and includes 6 ferries, for the next 450 kilometres. The weather has improved since we stopped and as I write I can see a small patch of blue sky and the warmth of the sun is warming Basil’s damp bones. Fingers crossed for tomorrow.

Basil’s spot for the night. Better than a cramped car park with 100 other motorhomes and free to boot.

Sorry for the lack of photos, but I don’t own an underwater housing for my camera, which would have been needed most of the time today!