12th September 2017 published 13th September 2017
Today was the day we finally reached Regensburg. We set off through the lush Bavarian countryside, where some of the trees are now firmly taking on shades of Autumn. We were surprised to see a pair of storks feeding in a lush meadow. When we had journeyed from Greece up to Estonia in May and June there were storks everywhere, on their nests and feeding, but since re-entering central Europe a couple of weeks ago we have, until today, seen none. I assumed that they would have all migrated south by now. The two we saw today were probably late starters.
Before we got onto the motorway we filled up with LPG for the first time since northern Norway. The days are getting colder and we may need to start making more use of our heating. We also stopped to stock up at LIDL and much to my relief Sarah did not buy the on offer Lederhosen for me or our two sons, although she did take a photo and mighty fine they looked.
LIDL Lederhosen – photo courtesy of Sarah
We had a journey of about 90 miles today and if there was any doubt that we were in the heart of Europe, that was dispelled by Sarah counting number plates from 14 different countries during our journey!
Regensburg has no official Stellplatz for motorhomes, but my databases showed two overnight possibilities within walking distance of the old town. My preferred option was a huge parking area on one of the islands sitting in the River Danube (or Donau in Germany). Unfortunately when we arrived a large funfair had set up on the car park and so there was no room for motorhomes, or anybody else.
The second option, was also a largish car park, but it was packed. Initially it looked as if we would not find a space, but eventually we managed to squeeze into a narrow gap.
Sarah had been feeling not quite 100% and so opted to stay behind while I went for an initial explore. The idea was to stay overnight and explore Regensburg properly tomorrow.
Regensburg and the Danube
Regensburg is said, by the Rough Guide, to be the finest example of a medieval old town in central Europe. Similar things have been said about several of the towns we have already visited, but nonetheless I was looking forward to exploring the UNESCO World Heritage listed old town.
Town Hall
It was only a ten minute walk to the beginning of the old town and from there I made my way to the Town Hall, the location of Tourist Information. I had read on their website that they organised a walking tour every Wednesday (tomorrow) which they confirmed. Since I thought we were coming back into the old town tomorrow I just wandered back along different streets to where we had parked Basil.
Town Hall
Regensburg
I probably spent an hour or so in the old town and it is a very large area full of buildings dating back to as early as the 13th Century. In fact Regensburg was originally a Roman garrison on the Empire’s frontiers and there are a few pieces of Roman wall still left. It is another beautiful town, thankfully untouched during the last war. My initial impression is that it does not quite have the feel of some of the smaller towns we have been exploring, but that is probably just my personal prejudice for small, tight knit, communities.
Cathedral Regensburg
Regensburg
When I got back to Basil I began to have second thoughts about the car park we had chosen. The cars had begun to thin out and our large, newish, motorhome was starting to stand out like a sore thumb. There were several scruffy old caravans in the carpark, with various bits of rubbish including old seats wedged around them. I took the dogs for a walk adjacent to the car park and found signs saying the area was not to be used as a public toilet. Finally I watch a dodgy looking chap in a hoodie wandering aimlessly amongst the cars for more than fifteen minutes.
As I have read in many blogs, the golden rule of wild camping is that if you don’t feel comfortable in a place, don’t stay. Much though I would have loved to spend longer in Regensburg we both decided it would be better to move on.
We have moved 20 kilometres south west along the Danube and are now in a proper Stellplatz (48.913410, 11.874918) on the river bank, together with dozens of other motorhomes, making both me an Basil happy. The pay machine seems to indicate that we do not have to pay after 6pm and so we may have a free night, time will tell.
Basil on his Stellplatz
Finally, we have also been discussing a complete change of plan. The idea, as you know, was to spend the next three or four weeks slowly making our way up through Germany to meet up with my brother in Belgium and cross back to Blighty in early October. The weather forecast for Germany for the next ten days is poor. Rainy and cold. Today it has only been 12 degrees! So we are contemplating heading to the south of France where the weather still looks gorgeous, to warm our bones before a long British winter. We will be discussing this more tonight.