Last year we visited Wittenberg during the 500th anniversary of Martin Luther giving birth to Protestantism, by nailing his 50 thesis to the Wittenberg church door. The Outer Hebrides is a good example of some of the unexpected consequences of Martin Luther’ action.
In the northern islands of Lewis, Harris and North Uist the population are adherents of one of the more puritanical protestants sects, Calvinist Presbyterian. On a Sunday, like today, members of the church will undertake no work and as a result all shops and other businesses are shut. Someone I was speaking to on the site said that his grandfather used to fill his pipe on a Saturday evening because he felt filling it on a Sunday would constitute work!
Our local beach with Eriscay in the background
On the other hand, the southern islands of South Uist and Barra managed to retain Roman Catholicism. One result was that which the Young Pretender, Bonny Prince Charlie, made his abortive attempt to regain the British Crown after his father James II had been effectively overthrown, primarily for his Catholic views, it was to South Uist that he first came where he was famously assisted by South Uist native Flora McDonald.
More pertinent to our current situation is that everything is open on a Sunday on South Uist. However, we decided we would pay homage to the Calvinists today, by doing no work. In fact nothing at all. We lazed around in the fantastic sunshine looking over the sea to Barra and then at lunchtime undertook further idleness, by walking a mile or so to the local pub and having a couple of drinks and some food – excellent Haggis, Neeps and Tatties, for me. I know the Calvinists would not approve of us drinking alcohol on the Sabbath, or any other day for that matter, but we were sort of evolving our own theology as the day progressed!
Another beach overlooking Barra
Chatting around the site we have become aware that ticks are a major problem in these islands and the rapid increase of the parasites and sometimes accompanying Lyme’s Disease is the subject of a special study here. We’ve found three ticks on the floor of Basil over the last couple of weeks, which have assumed have dropped off the dogs, but from here on in we will be undertaking a daily self inspection for the unpleasant creatures. I don’t know whether that constitutes work or not, but I don’t care.
Tomorrow we are off for a 7 hour trip to Barra and are staying back at this campsite on our return. Our friendly corncrake has remained in the field next to the campsite. I don’t expect he will follow us to Barra, but instead will await our return!