Yesterday was all about returning from the Outer Hebrides to the Scottish mainland. The morning was overcast for a change and we went for a walk on the Machair around our lovely wildcamping spot. Once again we came across a huge number of wading birds. Anyone who visits the Outer Hebrides will immediately be surprised, whether they are interested in wildlife or not, by the number of birds of different species. I have certainly never seen anywhere like it in England.

Redshank

The ferry did not leave until 3.15 pm, but we decided to got to Stornoway early to try to pick up a few groceries. I knew Lewis was as stronghold of Scottish Presbyterianism, but I was astounded that absolutely every shop and petrol station was closed on the Sabbath, including Tesco! The only thing open seemed to be the ferry.

The ferry ride to Ullapool was smooth, but very full, not only of vehicles but a large number of foot passengers. There were an equally large number of dogs, which for once did not upset Mabel, but instead brought the small dog syndrome out in Melek. Unusually for him he kept barking at other dogs with the result that I spent most of the two and a half our voyage on deck with Melek, in the doghouse.

We camped at Broomfield Camping (57.895632, -5.166455 £20 without electricity) in the centre of Ullapool and because we do not need electricity we have got a pitch right on the edge of Loch Broom looking out at the mountains opposite. Just five minutes ago we saw a seal pop its head out of the water only 20 metres or so from Basil!

Another great waterfront spot for Basil

Last night we found that there was an Indian Restaurant just at the entrance to the campsite, so we treated ourselves to a takeaway. It would have been rude not to!

Today we have been into Ullapool to explore. The town, which is the largest settlement in the North West of Scotland, is really little more than a large village. It was built as a herring fishing town in the late 1770s and has waxed and waned over the years in accordance with the popularity of various types of fish found in these waters. It now has a small fishing fleet but is also heavily dependant on the tourist industry. Our exploration took little more than an hours, with a walk along the attractive harbour and a wander around the few backstreets.

Ullapool, with CalMac ferry to Lewis

After lunch I went to the Ullapool museum, which I found excellent. Earlier on this trip I wrote about a church built by Thomas Telford at Corran. The museum is located in such a Thomas Telford church. He was apparently commissioned to build over 30 “parliament churches” across the highlands and they are all of exactly the same layout.

The museum dealt with the history of the church and Presbyterianism in the area including a fascinating recording of an old congregation singing psalms in Gaelic, with no musical accompaniment: apparently hard line Presbyterians see any kind of music, other than singing psalms, as the work of the devil! The other half of the museum had an interesting history of various local industries and ways of life, including a wonderful oral history from an old sheep drover who recounted driving sheep to a market in Falkirk where he and his fellow drovers shared a single room in the city: 9 beds for 27 men and 40 dogs!!!

Loch Broom from Basil

The weather has been excellent again today and it looks set for another few days. Tomorrow we drive up to a place called Clachtoll where my family spent two lovely summer holidays. Since we are in the last “metropolis” for a couple of weeks, we might treat ourselves to a night at the pub, where we believe there will be some Scottish folk music being played.

Great Blackback Gull: our largest native Gull