A Life in the Slow Lane

With the Snowbirds

Team Basil are in an environment with which they are totally unfamiliar – with the Snowbirds of Northern Europe.

On Wednesday 10thwe fled Aranjuez and endeavoured to complete our transnavigation of Spain. Starting just south of Madrid we drove 270 miles and ended up on the mediterranean coast to the north of Valencia. This one of the longest one day drives we have undertaken in Basil but last year we discovered podcasts to help time pass more quickly.

Before our 8 month tour of 2017 our eldest son suggested we listen to a podcast called “Serial” which is a detailed investigation of a possible miscarriage of justice. We were hooked. We have since listened to numerous crime related podcasts, with the odd Melvyn Bragg “In Our Time” thrown in to help long journeys pass. And on Wednesday it was the first four hours of the new third series of “Serial”.

The scenery on our journey was interesting. Unlike the dry dustbowl which seemed to typify Spain to the west of Madrid, the scenery to the east was more interesting. Arable land, mountains, forests, vineyards and fruit orchards to name but a few of the landscapes we encountered. It was still very dry but much more varied than western Spain.

I had chosen a well reviewed ACSI campsite directly on the mediterranean, near Oropesa, for a four night sojourn and had luckily booked a space, having been kindly warned at Aranjuez reception that the forthcoming weekend was a Spanish National Holiday. When we finally arrived at Camping Didota (40.121664, 0.158646 €15 a night on ACSI) it was clear that the likes of Spanish National Holiday would make no difference to this campsite, because there were no Spaniards on site.

Camping Didota is unlike any out of season campsite we have ever come across. It is firstly completely full, which is unusual enough. We obtained the last pitch. Secondly all the pitches are very small. We had difficulty manoeuvring Basil onto he allocated space. The combination of small pitches (which we have seen many times before) with a full campsite means that it feels as if everyone is on top of each other.

It is also apparent that many, if not most, of the campers are resident for long periods of time. The ACSI rate reduces to only €10 a night for stays of a month or more. These long stayers are what are known as Snowbirds. They leave their north European homes anytime from September onwards and then spend months on one or more campsites for the whole winter period.

There are activities laid on every day such as Latin Dancing, Zumba, Aquarobics, Spanish Lessons etc. etc. Happy hour for half price drinks every day from 4 to 6 pm. Special cheap meals everyday. Swimming pool open all year round. Outside gym and much more.

There is quite a sense of camaraderie amongst the long stayers, who seem to form up into small national groups. It’s not my cup of tea, but Sarah and the dogs are enjoying the proximity to the long beach.

Our Beach at Oropesa

For those of a delicate disposition, read no further.

Over the last few days I have developed a rash in a rather sensitive area of my anatomy. We’ve tried the many lotions and potions we carry in Basil’s hospital bay, but all to no avail. I therefore decided that now we were on the coast there were bound to be lots of English speaking doctors to cater for all the tourists and I would get it treated before any long term damage could occur.

I approached the very nice receptionists at Camping Didota who speak excellent English, but they had no idea about an English speaking doctor, which is a bit worrying considering their average patron at this time of year is about 70 years old! So I found a medical centre using the every useful Google Maps and confirmed with reception that I could just turn up and get treated, but in Spanish.

The clinic was three miles away so Sarah, the dogs and I set off along the beach to walk to the clinic. As we proceeded we passed numerous high rise blocks of flats which blight much of the Spanish coast. It was interesting to compare this with our experience of the Greek Peloponnese where virtually all development seems to be low rise and coast, as a result appears more natural, which genuine fishing villages still forming the core of most coastal communities.

The Blight of the Spanish Coast

As we walked I was learning the Spanish phrases I might need, but the revelation that the Spanish for rash is “erupcion” had me giggling when I used the term in combination with the part of my anatomy had the “erupcion”!

We finally arrived and I trotted in anxiously expecting much difficulty, only to find that by handing over my European Health Card I was issued with a Valencian temporary medical card and was directed to clinic three. Within 5 minutes I had been seen by a Doctor with little English. But with the use of Google translate we were able to understand each other, a diagnosis was made and prescription issued.

At the nearby pharmacy I found I got a big discount on my medication due to my Valencian Medical Card, so I ended up paying only €1.45 for something I think would be two or three times that price in Britain.

Medical problems hopefully sorted Sarah and I treated ourselves to an excellent €10 menu del dia on the way home.

Oropesa’s attempt at the Blackpool Lights

Today, although Sarah has been for numerous walks on the beach, I am turning into a Snowbird. I have sat around vegetating, although new House Insurance has been arranged. I’ve not yet had my shirt off, which seems obligatory for the Snowbirds. I have never seen so many bronzed saggy chests in my life before.

I think Sarah and I will have to get moving soon before I become rooted to the spot and refuse to move, except for a Latin dance lesson, until next spring!!