Team Basil were not too sad to leave Camping La Manga. It was too big for my liking, there was too much shade for this time of year (excellent for summer) and the facilities were clean but looking a bit tired.

We have decided to cross Spain, East to West, just inland from the Costa del Sol and I had pencilled in a stop in a town called Guadix, which is in the vicinity of Granada. It doesn’t get a mention in the Rough Guide but the Michelin Guide gives it a short write up.

So when we rolled into their free air (37.;303346, -3.13353) I was not expecting too much. I made a quick dash for the Tourist Information before it closed and came away with a map, some suggestions and information that a little road train would take us up to an area of underground houses at 4pm.

After lunch we had a look round the pretty old town, probably the nicest we’ve seen so far this trip. Obligatory Cathedral but also a fairly complete 11th Century castle built by the Moors from clay. A first for us I think.

At 4pm, having purchased two €6 tickets for the “train” we waited only to find that we were to be the only passengers. The driver even asked us our preferred language for the running commentary.

The train deposited us in a square in the middle of the area where 5,000 people still live underground. The topography surrounding the town consists of low pinnacles of eroded clay and so the houses are burrowed into the side of these clay outcrops. Most now have a modern front extension to house a kitchen. They all now have drainage, plumbing and electricity, which was not the case until relatively recently.

We were able to look round “Juan’s” cave dwelling free of charge and apart from the lack of natural light is was like a modern bungalow. Juan was also selling a few things in his front hallway and I fell into the trap of asking to buy a bottle of local wine without determining the price first. A few minutes later and €10 poorer we left Juan rubbing his hands in glee,

There was a moderately interesting museum to explore and the curator explained that unlike Matera in Italy, which we have previously explored, the cave houses in Guadix are not tourist buildings but houses for genuine local residents. Apparently the local doctor’s surgery is in a cave as is the area’s church.

Considering Guadix was really just a place to stop on our cross country journey it turned out to be our favourite town so far and well worth a trip if you are anywhere near Granada.