Last night I went round the back of the hostel and found the heart of the place. An outside bar and free use of barbecues. Sarah and I had a beer and a cider and drank in the ambience of young people having a good time. Our presence probably doubled the average age!
We then went into Vilnius for our much anticipated Indian meal and we were not disappointed. We have eaten Indian inspired food all over the world, including in India, so we are very experienced. Sue’s Indian Raja may have a strange name but the food was genuinely excellent. We had a very enjoyable evening.
Today we went on a walking tour with “walking tours with locals”. It is one of these ostensibly free walks which you pay for at the end with a tip. Our guide was young, knowledgeable and enthusiastic, which is always a good combination.
Vilnius Street
He walked us to all the main parts of old town, most of which we had visited yesterday, but his commentary was far more than about the buidings, but was rather about the history and the people of Lithuania. It was particularly interesting to hear him talk about his discussions with his own parents who had grown up under communism and hanker for an earlier time where jobs and houses were guaranteed and you always felt you were looked after by the state
Presidential Palace
We were told that the young are grateful for there freedoms even though jobs at home are scarce. He explained they could now emigrate for a job which was never an option before.
Sculpture celebrating Lithuanian paganism. Lituania was the last European country to convert to Christianity
Also the Catholic Church has come surging back in Lithuania. In the Soviet period the official position was that everyone should be an atheist and churches were commandeered for secular purposes. Now the churches are once again used for their original purpose.
Vilnius Street
The guide took us into a formerly run down part of the city where artists have declared the area to be an independent state called Usupis. They have a consitution prominently displayed stating such admirable rights as always having hot water and heat, but also less straightword commitments for, for instance, dogs to have the right to be dog! Mabel and Melek’s ears pricked up at that. They have a parliament for decision making, which is not surprisingly called the “Barliament”. Their national day is 1st April for obvious reasons and everyone visiting Usupis on that day must have a special passport stamped. It was all an attempt to make the area feel different and for it primarily to be for artists and there is plenty of art on display.
Entrance to Uzupis with the “Barliament” in he background
The tour was all that could be expected and we thoroughly enjoyed it. Vilnius itself has a beautiful old town, but from my point of view it does not quite match up to its neighbours Riga and Tallin. There are too many new buildings integrated into the the old town and although there are some very old buildings none of them (except perhaps St. Anne’s Church) are that architecturally special.
Someone very important was visiting Vilnius today
It’s a lovely town to walk around, especially if the weather’s good, as it has been for us, and there is a thriving pub and restaurant theme. But be warned since Lithuania joined the Euro all the prices have been gradually lifted up to the same price as western Europe. It is no longer a cheap place to visit.