Our wildcamping spot on the car park for the Hepokongas waterfall should have turned out to be perfect. It was peaceful, we were on our own and there was even somewhere to empty the cassette. It was not to be.

As we sat sheltering from the on off rain, we spied on various cars which came and went into the early evening, bringing sightseers to Finland’s most beautiful waterfall. Being nosey is a favourite pastime when it’s raining and there is nothing better to do. Most of the visitors were uninteresting, but two ladies of a certain age peeked our curiosity. They arrived in a small car and got out of the car and back in several times when they finally decided to stay put and remained in the car for some time. An hour or two passed and they were still there. Eventually they got out and put on hard core hiking gear. Full camouflage jackets and trousers, boots and rucksacks. They took plenty of time doing this but eventually disappeared on the path the waterfall. We thought the clothing was a bit of an overkill for a 600 metre walk and we had a little chuckle to ourselves. The laugh was on us though, because they did not return until 8 am, hard core hikers indeed.

We were now on our own and I had my chance to empty our cassette into the composting toilet. So over I went. By now, because of the rain, it was very dark in the toilet but just light enough for me to read that I should cover my “deposit” with a layer of sawdust, which was helpfully provided. I therefore emptied the cassette and shoved a couple of scoops of sawdust down the toilet. I then noticed a knob on the toilet, which if turned seemed to move something around inside the bowl. It was too dark to see what this was for, so I just shoved a couple more scoops of sawdust down, gave the knob a few twirls and hoped for the best. I shall have to examine one of these contraptions in better light, because when I went over to have a look this morning, the heavy sky still made observation impossible.

Finally we started to relax over an episode of Orange is the New Black. We tend to watch one episode before bed. As it was nearing the end a battered transit van appeared next to us and I could immediately see a little poodle in the passenger seat. We were sitting with Basil’s door open but the mosquito net across the doorway. The poodle had already seen Mabel and Melek and as it was let out of the van it was obvious it was not on a lead and it came towards us barking. Our two responded, but we managed to grab them both. The next thing we know a big boxer dog, also barking dementedly, had pushed his head through our flyscreen to try to get at our dogs. The two young owners retrieved both of their dogs and disappeared into the forest. We were left with a gash in our, currently essential, flyscreen.

I considered tackling the youngsters on their return, but I could see from the state of their van they hadn’t got two Euros to rub together and of course there was the language barrier and we didn’t have a clue what would be the cost of fixing it. On balance we decided to put it down to experience and get it fixed with the other two screens damaged by Mabel. I suspect this now might be a hefty bill. We were both very annoyed and as a result our “no alcohol on weekdays in Scandinavia else we’ll be broke” rule was temporarily suspended!

Morning broke and the weather was still inclement. Down from 25 degrees two days ago to 12 degrees today! I have to admit we are struggling to find things to do, other than walk round lakes. If it wasn’t for the bear safari and Basil’s impending service I think we would be making our way up to Norway.

I did some research and we decided we would head for a campsite which had plenty of walking, only a short distance from our bear safari. As we headed further north we saw more evidence of logging than we have seen previously in Finland. I know that the forests are an important natural resource for the country and I’m sure it’s well managed, but a newly logged area certainly looks very unsightly.

We had two wildlife highlights on our journey. Sarah saw our first reindeer by the side of the road. Because we were on a main road and travelling fairly quickly I didn’t see them and there was nowhere to stop.

A bit further on eagle eyed Sarah spotted some very large birds in a newly ploughed field. This time I saw them and they looked at a glance like small ostriches or emus. I decided that either someone was farming ostriches, which they certainly do in England, or they might just be cranes. So we found a parking spot and turned round. On the way back it was no clearer with the naked eye what they were. I turned again, so we were on the right side of the road and found a good place to stop. They had moved much further from the road and the light was terrible, but through binoculars and my birding lens it was clear they were cranes. We were very lucky to see them, because Scandinavia is the only part of the EU in which they can be found.

Cranes. Too far for a good photograph but good enough for identification

Eventually we arrived at Camping Kylmaluoma (65.586987, 28.899497). It is another very well equipped campsite with fast wifi at reception and surprise, surprise situated in a forest next to a lake!! At €26 with a Keycamp card it is at the top end of what we will pay, but we need somewhere to spend some time before the bears and where I can research Norway.

The new lake in the rain

While I was starting my Norway research Sarah decided to take the dogs for a little walk. She returned soaked up to the knees, with Mabel looking as if she had swum the whole way. Having not learned her lessons from yesterday or the day before, she had not followed a waymarked path but had walked round the lake “off piste” including some wading through a bog. If we go for a walk tomorrow I shall be making sure I never loose sight of a tree with right coloured paint on it!

Basil with Sarah fixing the fly screen

As I am writing this post Sarah is yet again demonstrating her sewing skills by repairing our flyscreen. We will still have to get it replaced for cosmetic reasons but she has, as usual, done an excellent job and it will last for the rest of the trip, unless we come across another boxer dog!

The Repair