Our first stop this morning was supposed to be Albi’s version of the LIDL, but as we were driving there team Basil was tempted, en route, by a huge Carrefour. We are running low on one of our two LPG bottles and so while Sarah went shopping I attempted to fill up with LPG.
Unfortunately the bays at Carrefour’s petrol station were extremely tight and the LPG pump was in the most awkward position. Nonetheless I attempted to bravely navigate Basil into the correct bay. Without Sarah watching the right hand corner judging the distance to the large concrete curb on which the LPG pump sat, was extremely difficult, as was confirmed when I heard an ominous scraping sound from Basil’s front end. Fortunately it’s only a flesh wound and will take its place alongside the numerous other bumps and bruises that will, one day, have to be sorted out at a body shop.
Finally we got underway, larder bulging, to Cordes-sur-Ciel, only 15 miles away. Cordes, as it was, until recently called, was, many argue, the first Bastide to be built. In 1222 Raymond of Toulouse authorised its construction on top of a very steep hill to replace a nearby town raised to the ground during the Albigensian crusades . Contrary to my description of a Bastide a couple of days ago, it has no grid system or central square (except for a small market place) and over the years has acquired formidable fortifications.
The result of its elevated hilltop position and its walls, Cordes suffered very little damage during the French wars of religion in 16th Century. Consequently it contains a large number of original 13th and 14th Century houses.
Having parked Basil on an €8 aire (44.0643, 1.9585 )below the town I was eager to explore, despite the persistent rain. Sarah was keener on a cup of tea to see if the weather would ease. Sarah won the day and uncannily just as she had finished her tea the weather improved.
We climbed a steep road from the aire to reach the base of the town. We had an another 500 feet (120 metres) of precipitous climbing to reach the centre of Cordes. Fortunately Sarah spotted one of the little tourist trains which we confirmed would take us to the top in 5 minutes.
Alighting at the highest point the tourist train could reach we climbed the remainder and then slowly made our way down. You may remember that a couple of weeks ago we visited another hilltop village called Oingt, which I described as a little twee. Cordes is not twee.
As you walk along it’s narrow cobble streets, apart from the occasional art gallery, or pottery, it feels as if you could have gone back in time and be wandering through a medieval town.
Any restoration has been carried out carefully, however as many as half the buildings don’t look as if they’ve been touched in years. Peeling paint and crumbling walls abound. As a photographer it is difficult to know where to look, there are great shots to be had everywhere.
After consulting with the Tourist Information Office, & Sarah insisting on visiting a few of the artisan shops, we wandered precarious down the very steep main street, soaking it all in.
We eventually reached the square at the base of the town and made our way back to Basil. Sarah’s luck with the weather was confirmed by the arrival of more rain just as we reached home.
