After a good night’s sleep on the quayside we awoke to find fisherman selling their catches from small stalls erected behind each boat. Sarah sussed it out first with the dogs and I followed up and bought us a plump sea bass. There were a few sea creatures I had never seen before including some, the size of crayfish, which looked something like a scorpion, but without the sting. If I see anymore on this journey I will try to get a photo.
After breakfast we set off to the UNESCO World Heritage Castel Del Monte. To someone of my age “Del Monte” means one thing only – tinned fruit. But this castle pre-dates the man from Del Monte by 1200 years, being built by Frederick II as part of a mad castle building spree in the 13th Century. Apparently he or his architect had an obsession with the number 8, for reasons which are unclear and so the castle has been constructed as an octagon and all the rooms and other elements are likewise 8 sided.
Castel Del Monte
I have to admit, sitting alone on the top of a hill, from the outside the castle is probably as impressive as any castle I’ve seen, and I’ve seen a lot of castles. Inside is a different matter. The regular shape of the octagon, repeated endlessly inside means it is a series of identically sized rooms arranged around a central, you’ve guessed it, octagon. It lacks the interest of other castles with rooms of varying sizes, with twisting passages, which you can really explore. Still, well worth a visit.
Castel Del Monte
Castel Del Monte
Before lunch we drove south to the small town of Alberobello which has become a UNESCO World Heritage site because of it’s unique dwellings. These are called trullis. They are small circular buildings topped with a conical roof made up of thin stones stacked in such a way as they remain stable without the need for mortar. Several of the trullis are often attached together to make a house, with each trulli making a room.
Alberobello
Trullis
Even the church is a trulli
Nobody seems to be sure from where these building originate. They are totally unique in Europe and only occur in this one small part of Southern Italy. Tomorrow we will see them dotted around the countryside as we drive further south, but in Alberobello there are hundreds huddled together across two or three of the hills that make up the centre of the town.
Trulli
Trullis
We have visited Alberobello before, but then it was packed. Today, on a coldish March afternoon it was virtually deserted and a much better way to take it all in. For anyone visiting it is worth noting that the main area of trullis is inundated with shops selling tourist tat, which somewhat detracts from what has attracted tourists in the first place. However to the north there is another area of trullis where there are virtually no shops and you can get a much better impression of how the whole area used to look. The whole impression is magical.
Alberobello
Sarah’s dream home!
Basil is parked for the night on a Sosta only about 50 yards from the trullis (40.782973, 17.233431). Unfortunately such convenience comes at a price. €18 for the night, with electricity but no toilets or showers. This would be fair enough in July but seems a bit much in March when there is a total of two motorhomes parked in an area which would take about 100 in the summer.