A Life in the Slow Lane

Lofotens Day Two

We made the most of the few free facilities at Sandletta Camping by fully filling and emptying Basil’s various receptacles. One of the jobs we now have is refilling about 10 two litre bottles with drinking water. We made the decision at the beginning of the trip that we would drink bottled water. Firstly because we were unsure of the quality of drinking water in certain parts of Eastern Europe and secondly it saved us having to regularly sterilise Basil’s water tank, which involves much emptying and refilling of a 110 litre tank.

Up until Finland this plan worked well. Drinking water in supermarkets was very cheap. This ended in Finland and so we have taken to refilling empty water bottles with the excellent free water in Finland in Norway.

In the UK, both in Basil, and in previous caravans, we have sterilised the main water receptacle a couple of times a season and drunk water from the motorhome/caravan tap. I think this is the method we will continue to use, providing we are in Western European countries.

The day started with the usual low cloud, but within a few miles it had broken up and we were yet again experiencing cloudless skies and spectacular mountain, fjord and lake views. As I said yesterday, the Lofotens bear a great similarity with Senja island, except perhaps the mountains are a little higher. There appears to be more farming, in the form of hay cutting for animal husbandry, in the Lofotens and the islands seem more densely populated. The Lofotens are not exactly busy by European standards, but there are certainly far more people, including tourists, than anywhere else we’ve been in Finland or Norway, with the exception of the Nordkapp car park!

Lofotens

The morning was spent meandering along island roads admiring the stunning views and stopping at a few designated “viewpoints”. The Norwegians do the official “viewpoint” thing very well. The roads are generally very narrow and it is difficult to park to take photographs, but where the views are particularly beautiful the Norwegians build a big car park, with fancy modern toilets and facilities, and wooden boarding and/or steps to the best views. The downside is that everyone ends up with the same photographs!

Lofotens

I had identified what I thought was an ideal location of a beach near a village called Eggum for lunch and possibly to stay the rest of the day. As we turned off the main road to find Eggum my plan hit a snag: sea fog. By the time we reached Eggum the view was down to 50 metres or so and the temperature had fallen from 20 degress celcius to 11. There may have been a lovely beach, but we couldn’t see it!

Another official viewpoint, complete with the beginnings (or end) of sea fog. Notice the bridge on the right. They have to be built high enough to allow ferries and other large ferries underneath.

We turned round and found a sunnier spot for lunch. In the Lofotens you need to find an overnight spot early in the day, because the density of motorhomes is very high. I have given up waving, as does just about everyone else, because you would almost have your hand in the air full time. I looked at my databases and located a spot, off the main road, and to the south of the islands, which I thought would be free of sea fog.

Photograph from an official viewpoint, with the dreaded sea mist rolling in!

When we arrived (68.158137, 13.692156) we found a huge parking area with picnic tables, cassette toilet emptying, toilets, fantastic views and best of all 21 degree temperatures and sunshine. The comfy chairs came out and we set ourselves up for the duration. In the late afternoon I enquired of Sarah why more motorhomes had not found this brilliant spot. She explained that while walking the dogs she had seen a small sign saying that the parking spot was intended for people to have a rest or even a nap but not for overnight stays! It is in the middle of nowhere and it is the first time we have come across this, but probably the local council has come under pressure from campsite owners.

View from our overnight spot

It is on all the databases as an overnight stop and there are now 10 or so motorhomes and a tent, so we are going to take a chance. If there’s no blog tomorrow it may be because we are in clink. But being Norway it will be the most luxurious jail in the world!

Basils’ (illicit) overnight spot