A Life in the Slow Lane

Copenhagen

22nd August 2017 (Published 23rd August 2017)

The alarm went off at silly o’clock in the morning in order to get us all up and ready to make the 10 am free walking tour in Copenhagen. After a rushed breakfast we made our way to the train station nearest to Camping Absalon, a mere 10 minute walk. The dogs now handle any form of transport like pros and so the 12 minute train ride to the main Copenhagen railway station was taken in their stride.

The free walking tour starts from outside the impressive town hall, which turned out to be the fourth iteration of the building, two of the predecessors having burnt down and the third now used for an alternative purpose. About sixty or so people turned up for the tour and we were split into two English language groups and one Spanish. Our group was led by an Englishman, originally from Wolverhampton, who has lived in Copenhagen for seven years. Although not a born and bred local he turned out to be an entertaining and knowledgeable guide. He made a few negative remarks about his home town, so when it came time for us all to say where we came from, I summoned up my best Black Country accent and said “Wolver – ampton”, much to the amusement of my fellow Brits, although the guide saw through it in a millisecond.

Copenhagen Town Hall

One of the themes of the tour was fire, because Copenhagen has suffered from more than its fair share of fires over the years, with the result that few of the buildings are from the middle ages, with most being from the Renaissance or later.

Copenhagen Street Scene

Our tour took us through most of the main sights in central Copenhagen, such as the picturesque New Harbour, the Royal Family’s residence at Amalienborg, the Houses of Parliament and the new Opera House. We could have toured these buildings on our own, but the great thing about a guided tour is the wealth of information you get about Copenhagen and Denmark generally and see buildings that aren’t in most guidebooks, such as where Mr. Jacobsen brewed his first pint of Carlsberg (originally called Jacobsen’s) and the garret in which Hans Christian Anderson lived while he struggled to become a ballet dancer, then actor and then singer before turning his hand to writing.

The New Opera House

It was, as usual with the Free Walking Tours a great three hours. The guides are working for tips and so there is every incentive for them to make the tours as interesting as possible.

Copenhagen New Harbour

Our guide recommended a place called Paper Island for lunch. I had already read about it and was thinking along the same lines. It is an old warehouse area, next to the main harbour, where numerous street food stalls have set up, serving all sorts of Danish and ethnic food. The weather was kind to us all day, so Sarah and grabbed a table in the sunshine, overlooking the harbour and first I had an excellent Danish craft beer and Sarah and cider. And then we had some food and another drink. Don’t judge me, because we have been in three almost dry countries before Denmark, I then had a third beer and we were well into the afternoon! It turned out to be the most expensive meal we have had on the trip so far. Well to be more accurate the most expensive drink. We remembered back to those days in Greece where wine in a restaurant could be as little €2.50 for half a litre and wept when we saw that half a litre of beer and half a litre of cider cost more than €15 in Paper Island.

Inside Paper Island

Paper Island is closing down next year and being replaced by blocks of flats nobody can afford. I did feel (and still do feel) a little sorry for the stall holders, but I did have second thoughts as I cried into my beer!

The Main Harbour

The centre of Copenhagen is fairly compact for a capital city. Our guide said everywhere is within 20 minutes walk. Having said that Sarah, the dogs and I had managed 8.5 miles by the time we got back to the campsite. I felt a little “tired and emotional” by the time we unlocked Basil and so put the blog off for a day. A sensible choice I think since otherwise it would have made less sense than usual!

Danish Parliament

We both thoroughly enjoyed our day in Copenhagen, a city which seems to have almost as many bicycles as cars. It seems a nice easygoing place with plenty to see. I think this is somewhere we will visit again sometime. There are many museums we have not visiting and sights we have not seen. Copenhagen is definitely a place worth a visit.

Copenhagen in Bicycle City