Sunday 21st May
Our journey from Noto to Modica, via the inevitable LIDL, was strangely uneventful. I’ll be happy to have more journeys of this nature!
On our arrival, the car park we had chosen to stay in was almost empty (13.8537, 14.7554) and it was easy to find a spot for Basil. It had been raining on and off throughout our journey and since we had arrived at Italian lunchtime (midday to three, four or even five O’Clock) we decided we would delay our exploration of Modica until later in the day.
When we eventually set off the weather had improved somewhat. Sarah and I spent had few days in Modica nine years ago and it was in this very town that a chance meeting with some motorhomers in a cafe lit the initial spark that led to Basil and our adventures.
Since we had already explored Modica thoroughly in the past, we were attracted by a little tourist bus, masquerading as a train, that, for €5, toured the main sites of Modica. Since upper town is 160 m (520 feet) higher than the lower town, this seemed like a sensible strategy.
Modica is another of the UNESCO World Heritage sites relating to Baroque architecture which resulted from the catastrophic earthquake of 1693. Our little train meandered around Modica through streets that seemed too narrow; bends that appeared too tight; and gradients that looked too steep. Sarah and I were able to recognise places and reminisce about our holiday in 2014.
Modica is also famous for its chocolate which is made in a unique manner leaving the sugar crystallised inside. We availed ourselves of their famous Chilli Chocolate, which Sarah later found too spicy. All the more for me!
We returned to Basil briefly to find the car park was now packed with Italians typically squeezed into every possible space and many that seemed impossible. We did not understand the sudden crowds but assumed this was a normal Sunday passeggiata. Before dinner Sarah had an Aperol Spritz and me, my now favourite cocktail, a Negroni. Following which we had a good, but not great pizza, followed by a shared cannolo.
When we emerged from the restaurant we found a procession winding its way through the town. It was clearly religious because the parade was led by priests and just behind them was carried a gaudy tableau featuring Jesus and Mary.
Despite my best efforts on the internet I cannot determine what the parade denoted, but it was clearly important due to the number of people parading and just watching. It concluded with a loud and extensive firework display. Luckily Skye doesn’t seem to be bothered by fireworks or loud noises generally.